2016 Trax, Unable to track down these nightmare issues. NEED HELP

[Burnies911]

I am working on a friends 2016 Chevy Trax and am getting P0236, P1101 and a P2227 codes. I have replaced or repaired all PCV issues, All sensors, MAP, MAF, PCV Bypass kit, Smoke tested to check for air and vacuum leaks with no leaks noted. but I am getting way to much crankcase pressure. It has blown the front seal out twice and blowing oil of the cams seals. My Turbo boost sensor is reporting 29.50 lbs ( on a 14lb turbo at idle) and does not change upon acceleration so I will be replacing the sensor tomorrow but more importantly it seems to me that my turbo bypass valve is not being activate. Scanner is showing that the Turnbo Boost Solenoid is reporting (inactive) which makes sense to me because the boost is going directly into the crank case. My question is, I pulled the solenoid off and bench tested and appears to work correctly. My question is what commands the Solenoid to show as Active and what can I do to manually test that it is working?? So Frustrated. If it was my car I would have crushed it. (Never selling this abomination to anyone else) HELP!! I need to fix this for the owner to have her car back to haul her kids around.

 

[goldroger11]

I am working on a friends 2016 Chevy Trax and am getting P0236, P1101 and a P2227 codes. I have replaced or repaired all PCV issues, All sensors, MAP, MAF, PCV Bypass kit, Smoke tested to check for air and vacuum leaks with no leaks noted. but I am getting way to much crankcase pressure. It has blown the front seal out twice and blowing oil of the cams seals. My Turbo boost sensor is reporting 29.50 lbs ( on a 14lb turbo at idle) and does not change upon acceleration so I will be replacing the sensor tomorrow but more importantly it seems to me that my turbo bypass valve is not being activate. Scanner is showing that the Turnbo Boost Solenoid is reporting (inactive) which makes sense to me because the boost is going directly into the crank case. My question is, I pulled the solenoid off and bench tested and appears to work correctly. My question is what commands the Solenoid to show as Active and what can I do to manually test that it is working?? So Frustrated. If it was my car I would have crushed it. (Never selling this abomination to anyone else) HELP!! I need to fix this for the owner to have her car back to haul her kids around.

You've checked a lot already, so it sounds like the turbo bypass valve isnt opening when it should, causing that crazy boost and crankcase pressure. The solenoid is controlled by the ECU, so even if it works on the bench, it might not be getting the signal or power in the car.
You can try applying 12v directly to see if it physically opens, and definitely check the wiring and connectors for any issues. Its hard, but you're on the right track, just a bit more digging

 

[Jabbawockeez]

Agree with @goldroger11. He nailed it about testing with 12v directly. You can also try backprobe the connector to make sure the ECU is actually sending a command, because wiring breaks on these cars are sneakier than they look.

 

[Chevyhead]

I think swap the sensor first and I bet the solenoid will start behaving normally, been down that road...bad sensor made the car think it was boosting full time.

 

[itsmeroland]

I am working on a friends 2016 Chevy Trax and am getting P0236, P1101 and a P2227 codes. I have replaced or repaired all PCV issues, All sensors, MAP, MAF, PCV Bypass kit, Smoke tested to check for air and vacuum leaks with no leaks noted. but I am getting way to much crankcase pressure. It has blown the front seal out twice and blowing oil of the cams seals. My Turbo boost sensor is reporting 29.50 lbs ( on a 14lb turbo at idle) and does not change upon acceleration so I will be replacing the sensor tomorrow but more importantly it seems to me that my turbo bypass valve is not being activate. Scanner is showing that the Turnbo Boost Solenoid is reporting (inactive) which makes sense to me because the boost is going directly into the crank case. My question is, I pulled the solenoid off and bench tested and appears to work correctly. My question is what commands the Solenoid to show as Active and what can I do to manually test that it is working?? So Frustrated. If it was my car I would have crushed it. (Never selling this abomination to anyone else) HELP!! I need to fix this for the owner to have her car back to haul her kids around.

I agree with @goldroger11. The issue is likely electrical or a bad ECU, and you can manually test the valve by applying 12V directly to the solenoid's terminals while it's installed on the car to see if it moves. However, be careful not to short anything out! A better option might be to check the wiring harness for continuity between the ECU and the solenoid.. a broken or shorted wire could be preventing the ECU from sending the activation signal. I'd also double-check the check valve on the intake manifold. They're a common failure point on these cars and can cause a lot of the problems you're seeing. It's a small, cheap part, but when it fails, it can wreak havoc on the crankcase pressure!

 

[Arztn.50trx]

I am working on a friends 2016 Chevy Trax and am getting P0236, P1101 and a P2227 codes. I have replaced or repaired all PCV issues, All sensors, MAP, MAF, PCV Bypass kit, Smoke tested to check for air and vacuum leaks with no leaks noted. but I am getting way to much crankcase pressure. It has blown the front seal out twice and blowing oil of the cams seals. My Turbo boost sensor is reporting 29.50 lbs ( on a 14lb turbo at idle) and does not change upon acceleration so I will be replacing the sensor tomorrow but more importantly it seems to me that my turbo bypass valve is not being activate. Scanner is showing that the Turnbo Boost Solenoid is reporting (inactive) which makes sense to me because the boost is going directly into the crank case. My question is, I pulled the solenoid off and bench tested and appears to work correctly. My question is what commands the Solenoid to show as Active and what can I do to manually test that it is working?? So Frustrated. If it was my car I would have crushed it. (Never selling this abomination to anyone else) HELP!! I need to fix this for the owner to have her car back to haul her kids around.

Man, I feel your pain! Those codes are all pointing to an issue with the engine's pressure sensors and air flow. The turbo boost solenoid is controlled by the ECM. It uses data from the MAP, MAF, and barometric pressure sensors to know when to activate it. The fact that your scan tool says the solenoid is "inactive" is a huge clue. The ECM is likely in a protective "limp mode" because the sensor readings don't make sense, so it's not even trying to control the turbo. Your high crankcase pressure is a direct result of this uncontrolled boost, which is why your seals are blowing. Fix the root cause, and the symptom should go away. I'd start by replacing that turbo boost sensor and clearing the codes. If that doesn't fix it, then check the wiring to all those sensors for any damage.